FRIDAY 13 NOVEMBER.   Despite the ominous date, it was time to leave Gladstone Marina after an enjoyable week there, destination Fraser Island, 34 hours away. Time was going by, we were well into November, and the usual wet season electrical storms were coming in earlier than normal. We must get south to Brisbane as quickly as we can.

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TIME TO BEAT THE THUNDERSTORMS

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By mid afternoon on the second day of the passage, we were motoring down Hervey Bay, approaching the Great Sandy Straits. It was roasting hot and there was no wind. Finally a gentle breeze kicked in. We gratefully shut down the engine and again hauled up every stitch of sail. As we approached the entrance to the Straits, a line of thunder clouds developed over Fraser Island. I watched their movement carefully and judged that we would slip past them unscathed.

Bad call. A wind squall appeared out of nowhere, roughing up the surface of the sea as it raced towards us. Before we could respond Masala was hit. She heeled right over under the press of all her sails and took off, rounding up into the wind and thus running off course as she went. This wasn’t good, as we were now entering a series of channels flanked by shallow sand bars. We struggled to furl the genoa away, not easy as we had no sea room to alter course and so spill the wind out of the sail – it had to be furled while still driving the boat forward at high speed.

We departed early with the ebb tide to help us on our way (the ebb tide should only be used in the light wind conditions that we had, otherwise it becomes too rough near the harbour entrance). Once back in the ocean we put up every stitch of canvas – full main, full genoa, and staysail – and sailed into the wind. It took three long tacks to clear Bustard Head but, once around, we eased the sails and took off on a fantastic reach south down the coast. Fickle winds kept us busy altering sail configuration during the night, and motoring sometimes. Lightning played all night over the coast but fortunately the thunderstorms stayed away from us, although at one point we were surrounded by them.

Above: Gladstone Marina from Auckland Hill.

A few hours later we anchored behind Big Woody Island for a comfortable night’s sleep, pleased with the number of miles we had reeled off.

Next day we did our usual trick of sailing Masala through the intricate channels of the Sandy Straits, rather than motoring. Why? Because we can, and we have a great sailboat. After crossing the shallowest spot at the Hump, we sailed on to Garry’s Anchorage, where we found Ann and Col of Doorbellitis fame (see the previous Epistle). They came over to Masala for a great afternoon of laughter and note comparing. These are the times that make it all worthwhile.

That night we experienced a spectacular lightning show over the mainland, which went on for hours. It reminded us yet again that it was time to finish the cruise.