Cruising Log—13...Pearl Bay & Island Head Ck

From Port Clinton we sailed, or tried to, in very light winds, to Pearl Bay. It is a large, open bay with a group of islands in the south east corner that provide some shelter from the swell. It is a lovely place, with high ranges and sweeping beaches on the mainland, while the rocky islands behind are covered with dense stands of Hoop Pine. The native Hoop Pine forests don’t look like an Australian landscape – they hearken back more to the time of Gondwana, or perhaps present day Ontario in Canada.

Next day we explored the rocky islands in the dinghy. Access ashore is well nigh impossible. Then on the western side of one island we discovered a picture perfect sandy bay with a little beach and lovely clear water. We swam in the shallows then climbed to the central spine of the island for stunning views towards Masala through a rocky defile that almost sliced the island in two. Surprisingly, a shrubby garden clothed the southern half of the island. Showy red grevilleas in full bloom formed an impenetrable thicket from cliff to cliff, where the dark and ominous Hoop Pines sprouted from bare rock. In the deeper soils the Hoop Pine grows into a massive tree with a thick, columnar trunk. It is highly favoured for making marine plywood. But it is on the cliffs in bare rock and skeletal soil where the tree takes on its most fantastic forms. Stunted, dwarfed, bonsai, twisted and blasted by wind and salt spray, it is a most unlikely looking conifer. Move away from the harsh rocks and wind worn coast and it soon disappears, out-competed by Johnny-come-latelys such as the Eucalypts.

The morning we left Pearl Bay was simply gorgeous, with no wind and a glassy transparent sea. You could see the bottom as through a pane of jade glass. Imagine our surprise when we could see our anchor set in the sand under our keel. The chain could be clearly seen dropping from the bowsprit to the sea floor then trailing around in a series of big loops before finishing back under the boat. As we were marvelling at this, a huge stingray cruised under us.

We saw several Dugongs on the way out of Pearl Bay, but they were quickly forgotten when Leanne hooked a good mackerel. Sadly, it was the one that got away.

Next stop was Island Head Creek. Again it is a drowned river valley, bigger than Pancake Creek but smaller than Port Clinton. We had been dreading the entrance here as it is strongly tidal and, unlike Pancake Creek, has no navigation marks. The description in the cruising guide has you closing a series of rocks to within ten metres at one point – not our cup of tea. Fortunately we had spoken to a few people about an alternative entrance on the southern side of the main sandbank. This entrance is not well defined as there are no rocks to follow, but at least therefore it is somewhat forgiving if a mistake in navigation is made. We tried it and had no trouble, helped by a sea flat as a tack.